Small Isles Wildlife Cruise

Yesterday, we went to the Isle of Muck on M.V.Sheerwater owned by Arisaig Marine Ltd.

It was already 21C by 10am so we chose an outside seat instead of the ones inside or under the canopy. The boat was packed with 110 people (I hope there were 110 as the 2 lifeboats held 55 people each) and, strangely, the skipper mentioned as we boarded that it would be windy on the way back and he hoped this was ok. Like this was an issue! His problem, not ours.

The journey started with a 1 hour trip to the Isle of Eigg to drop off the passengers who were going to spend 5 hours there while we continued to Muck for a 3 hour visit.  Just before arriving at Eigg we passed a small group of islands where 30-40 seals were sunbathing on the rocks and swimming between them.

Once the other passengers left the boat, everyone else spread themselves around and chose better seats with more room to relax in the sun to continue the journey to Muck. Everyone was eyeing up each other’s’ seats, planning how to get a better seat on the way back.

Half way between Eigg and Muck the engines were cut and we were able to watch some Minkie whales diving in the waters around the boat.

On arrival at Muck, which is only 2 miles wide by 1 mile across, the temperature was still 22C. Everyone followed the people who got off the boat first along the only road leading from the pier and turned out to be the only road on the island. Some stopped at a small tearoom but we continued along the road, as the people in front seemed to know where they were going.

There were various very old cars, in all stages of disrepair, from ones being driven with no registration plates to ones with smashed windscreens and no doors. We figured that a) it’s not worth having a new car on the island as it wouldn’t get used much, and b) it must cost a lot to send a scrap vehicle back to the mainland. The locals get around using bikes which are from the era when I was growing up and beyond. It was kind of nice to see a Raleigh shopper bike with a basket on the front again after all these years.

The local play park consisted of a swing made from a log hanging off a tree by a rope and a more modern plastic toddler one hanging from another tree that was also available for anyone to use. We considered putting the dog in it for a laugh but decided against it.

As we walked across the island, our view of other islands opened up. It was like being in the Mediterranean with turquoise blue seas against spectacular island mountain scenery. We couldn’t believe that this was in Scotland!

As it turned out the people in front had known exactly where they were going and as we rounded the last bend we saw a beautiful deserted (apart from them, obviously) beach with the finest sand I’ve ever come across which was almost completely white.

We picnicked then walked along the beach and the dog enjoyed going in the water, which was beautifully clean and clear.

We turned to walk back and visited the tearoom which had surprisingly below average prices for amazing home-made cooking, although the advertised ‘Free Wi-Fi’ was unavailable as the generator wasn’t switched on. The locals are obviously not into charging tourists extortionate prices. A massively missed opportunity there, given their captive customers.

We boarded the boat half an hour before it was due to leave in order to get the best seats on the bench across the back so we wouldn’t have to turn round to see anything, and also in the sun, which was still very hot. Most people followed suit and we all collectively figured that we’d leave the rubbish seats inside for the people reboarding at Eigg on the way back. Good luck to them.

As the boat left Muck, the sea was noticeably rougher than it had been on the way there, and the wind was a little stronger. On turning towards Eigg a wave was blown across the back of the boat and it became apparent that the ‘best seats’ we’d carefully chosen were the ones that were going to get the worst of the spray. The first few times, everyone laughed, and we all figured it wouldn’t last and, as it was still very warm, we’d soon dry, even though the water was dripping off our chins. How we all laughed…the first 25 times.

As the journey continued, and we got wetter, we joked that we should let the people who got on at Eigg sit there instead, but it was actually really good fun and decided to stay put. This was more fun than when we went on The Big One at Blackpool last year!

On arrival at Eigg, the swell was such that the boat was pitching a couple of metres front to back and also rolling violently from side to side, and the boarders had to jump to the boat from the pier and hope for the best. Eventually for safety, and having thrown a couple of toddlers across, who luckily made it, the boat was docked at the opposite side of the pier for safety reasons.

We left Eigg and headed back on the 1 hour return trip to Arisaig with the boat still pitching violently and everyone hanging onto their seats in order not to be thrown on the floor or each other.

The waves became more violent and the spray picked up too, all of it landing on the two of us and the dog. We were getting soaked to the skin every single time it washed over the boat. The three of us were the entertainment for the people who’d got on at Eigg and every time a wave washed over, 70 pairs of eyes were on us. People offered towels but we were too far gone by then.

The return trip continued and the white knuckle them park-like ride started to lose its appeal as the sun went in and it became colder. Concerns also grew about the possible water damage to our phones, iPod and camera, which were hidden in a bag behind where I was sitting.

Half an hour before returning to Arisaig, the skipper cut the engines and the boat was totally surrounded by a school of at least 50 dolphins, all jumping out of the water in pairs, just like you see in films.

It was incredible to see them doing this, especially when they were joined by more whales. The dolphins stayed with the boat for around 10 minutes and this was arguably the most amazing point of the day. Everyone rushed to the sides to see better and within seconds they were all as wet as we were.  Serves them right for laughing at us!

Shortly before our arrival we passed another island covered with seals but everyone else was too wet and cold to care and Georgia was the only one to notice them.

Despite the rough ride, nobody threw up that we were aware of, although sick bags were offered by the crew. Back on dry land, we disembarked dripping and cold, but couldn’t believe what a great day we’d had.

On the way home with the car heater on full blast to warm us up and dry us out, an eagle dive bombed the car, almost hitting the windscreen, it was so close we could see the feathers on it’s undercarriage. it lived to tell the tale. Amazing!

This trip is probably going to stand out as the highlight of the two week holiday in Scotland, if not the highlight of the year, and I’m privileged to have had the opportunity to do it.

If you get the chance to do this, please take it…except if it’s under 22C…and/or raining…then it would be sh*t.